Advice by species
Frequently Asked Questions
Is vaccination compulsory?
No, but it is strongly recommended because these 2 diseases are fatal and incurable.
Is it necessary to vaccinate my rabbit if it doesn't go out?
Yes because there is a risk of transmission via a biting insect (mosquito, fly,…) or via the environment (shoes, hay, vegetables,…).
Is it necessary to get both vaccines?
Yes, because they are two different diseases (viruses).
Transmitted virus :
Virus resistant in the environment for 4 months! Often sudden death before the rabbit has shown any symptoms.
If symptoms :
Two variants : RDH1 and RDH2
Vaccination against Myxomatosis
Viruses transmitted by biting insects
2 forms of disease:
Why sterilize my rabbit ?
Why does it need to be sterilised?
For behavioural reasons (aggressiveness, nervous pregnancies, territoriality, …).
But ABOVE ALL to prevent or cure uterine tumours (and other affections of the reproductive system).
Ideally around 3 to 6 months (depending on weight and species) – No matter what age, it is never too late.
Clinical signs of a uterine tumour?
What your veterinarian can offer you:
And afterwards at home?
The life expectancy of a rabbit is currently 10 years; however, sterilization is necessary to hope to reach this age as well as possible.
Slowing down or stopping the transit of the rabbit
Gastrointestinal stasis in rabbits
Sudden appearance = EMERGENCY
Varies according to the stage of stasis, a consultation with the vet is essential, hospitalisation is sometimes necessary !
Vaccination against squares disease
Virus transmitted by contact with another ferret or dog, or by inhalation of virus particles.The animal will have a fever, stop eating, runny nose, cough, scabs on the lips and chin, and neurological disorders.
In contrast to dogs, ferrets rarely suffer from digestive problems.
No treatment is available.
Vaccination for rabies
Mandatory when travelling outside Belgium. Virus transmitted mainly by bite.
Enrichment of the environment - Foraging
Introduction of extrudates
Your Vietnamese pig's diet should be low in protein (12-14%), low in fat (2-5% max) and high in fibre (min 15%). Mazuri's “Mini-Pig" feed is interesting. The Vietnamese pig should also be given fresh produce: 2/3 vegetables and 1/3 fruit as a reward or treat. In addition, it is important to let it graze on fresh grass every day.
Your pig should have access to fresh water at all times. He should drink between 7 to 10% of his body weight per day. In addition, it is important that he has access to fresh water at mealtimes as this is when he will primarily consume his daily amount of water. To make sure your pig drinks enough, you can soak his feed or add a little cranberry or orange juice (in small quantities!) to his water. His water bowl should be heavy enough so that he cannot spill it and thus be deprived of water for several hours while you are away.
The pig can live outdoors as well as indoors.
Outdoors : When outdoors, it must have a cool, shady and wind-protected place, as well as a water or mud hole to regulate its temperature and protect itself from the sun and parasites. The minimum outdoor temperature tolerated by the pig is 5°C. It is good to know that a pig in a garden will certainly destroy it.
Indoors :Indoors the temperature should be between 18 and 22°C. He will need a large litter box because if it is too soiled, he will not want to relieve himself in it. Ideally, it should be far away from where he sleeps and feeds.
Exercise : Your Vietnamese pig needs daily exercise! Train him from a young age to walk on a leash. This way you can enjoy the benefits of a walk for two, once or twice a day.
Intelligent, curious and explorers, Vietnamese pigs have varied personalities. They are reputed to be hypoallergenic and have no body odour, except for the uncastrated male. However, stools and urine are quite smelly.
Vietnamese pigs can live up to 15 years and require special annual care such as nail and tooth trimming as well as vaccination against tetanus, red mullet disease, parvo and atrophic rhinitis.
3Adults, they will weigh 35 to 60 kg and measure 35 to 55 cm at the withers. Their growth ends around 1 year and a half but in some cases it can last up to 3 years!
It is important to sterilize them before 6 months for health and behavioural reasons. Indeed, a female that has not been operated on presents a high risk of developing a tumour or infection of the womb later on. Moreover, she can be aggressive or whiney and present a lack of cleanliness during her heats which occur for 3 days every month.
An uncastrated male is practically impossible to train. This is why it is advisable to castrate him before he is 3 months old. In addition, he would show aggressive sexual behaviour and very smelly urine.
To do list
Beekeeping is a very particular production activity and is based on the production of different products such as honey but also royal jelly, pollen, propolis...
This activity requires a precise expertise to know how to balance production, health and respect of the bee and its environment.
More and more, hive ownership is no longer limited to professionals. Recreational beekeeping is becoming more and more prevalent. It is important to have a basic knowledge of beekeeping to be able to manage the health and production of bees.
The bee is threatened by multiple infectious agents (bacteria, virus, parasite, protozoan, fungus...) but also environmental (cold, drought, famine, pesticides...). The management of the varroa parasite (Varroa destructor) is essential whatever your activity or the number of hives you have.
There are many techniques and protocols to fight against this parasite:
Whether you are a professional or a private individual, you can ask your veterinarian specialized in beekeeping for an expertise and a sanitary assessment of your apiary(s) to improve the health of your bees and prevent diseases as much as possible.
Indeed, an inventory of the different pathologies present as well as a varroa count are recommended to best approach the different honeydews as well as the wintering. Do not hesitate to ask your Nac veterinarian for advice.
Exotic Vet Care is still in NAC'tion!